DIY with Mike Stiers www.maxxsonics.com So you’ve decided to upgrade your car stereo system? A great deal of research and planning should go into this purchase since there is a lot to consider. Do you desire a nice upgrade of your factory speakers, are you looking for a Sound Quality overall of speakers, subwoofers and amplifiers, or are you designing a vision-blurring SPL machine? It is important to make a list of exactly what you are looking to replace or add to your audio system so that you can prepare your electrical system for the investment to come. Many people do not realize that their vehicles factory electrical system was not designed for aftermarket audio equipment. In fact, most factory electrical systems can only handle an audio system of 600 to 1200 watts. The lower end of the scale being the smaller vehicles and most foreign rides, and the upper end being large trucks and sport utility vehicles. As you increase demand, you need to look at upgrading your battery, alternator and most importantly your Big 3. THE BIG 3 The Big 3 consists of upgrading three wires under the hood of your vehicle. You can completely replace the three wires detailed below, or simply add additional wires to existing factory wires, the choice is yours. The existing factory wires are generally 8 gauge or smaller and are not designed for the high current demands of an aftermarket audio system. It is recommended that you use a nice insulated 0 gauge wire so that you only have to do this …
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car audio|A Brief History of Car audio
car audio system, much of it was coined in the last hundred years. As technology has changed, changed and reformed itself, the car audio system has transformed him.
The first impact on the car audio system was on the radio. Invented in the early 1900′s (became popular at about the same time Autos) it is not winning commercial status until the 1920s, occurred when the first commercial boom. In 1922 a historic date for the car audio system, George Frost was the first person to experiment known car radio with his own Ford car. Then in 1925, occurred the first official listing of a car radio, which was followed in 1927 with the first series production car radio, the transiton TH-1.
In 1930, made two famous American producer brothers Paul and Joseph Galvin, the 5T71, which is under the brand name “Motorola”. All over the world, began in Germany Blaupunkt car radio installed its first commercial in 1932 and Crossley’s the British fitting them from 1933.Up to 1950′s was the common AM radio. In 1952 it was established that blue dot, the first FM car radio. FM was not entirely popular or available until at least a decade later. The 1950′s was a time of great change for the car audio system, such as the SEEK button was introduced. – A button that is still free to car audio systems today
1960′s saw tape players come on the car audio scene. Reel to Reel tape player was the first arrival but their bulkiness made sure to not be popular. In 1964, Phillips invented the Compact Cassette and Lear, the 8-track cassette invented to compete with them. The 8-track tape their way into Ford’s 1965 cars, but it would not be until 1970 that the Compact Cassette pushed his way into the car.
the 1970s and 80s saw FM radio stations with extremely popular, however, responded AM radio by more talks shows and sports channels for its listeners Car Radio finally expanded so that the listener more freedom of choice in 1982 -. has entered an important moment -.. The. Compact Disc or CD was produced by Sony and Phillips which are into car audio systems in 1984 for the first time,
years after that saw Change CD’s to cassette, DVD and MP3 introduced to the car audio market. In recent years we have used Bluetooth technology to connect our mobile phone related (smart phones) to our car audio system making it useful for not only entertainment but also for practical reasons.
If you are interested in finding a car audio System have a look at www.caraudio4u.co.uk
@akosiasizzz Sure can.
@What8Really You should consult an alternator manufacturer and mechanic for that one.
can i ask something? can i install the big 3 at gauge 4 wire?
whats the little jumper for?
Is it possible to just install a completely different power system for all aftermarket needs? Ex. I want to install a second new battery and alternator to solely run all my aftermarket stuff.
@BIGGIEDEVIL Awesome to hear! Takes power to make power. Glad things worked out for you.
@Ericec4126 You do not have to, it is optional. Simply a safety precaution as the wire you are adding is not factory and most factory charge wires run to a fuse box prior to connecting to the positive battery terminal.
why do you have to put a fuse on the charge wire from the alternator to the battery?
why does a fuse have to be on the charge wire
i put a kinetik 1400R in my car and just with that it made the world of difference then did the big three man my shit is banging harder than ever, great vid man
why do you have to put a fuse on the charge wire?
why do you have to put a fuse on the charge wire?
one question what’s the point of puttin a fuse on the wire from the alternator to the battery?
@FlaRarebreed Any bolt will do, but if possible, you should try a retrace the original ground wire.
@d77543020 The HFEQ will provide a very clean output to your amplifier. It has a built in line driver capable of delivery up to 9 volts of clean signal output.
@newisufan You should be in good shape without any major upgrades if your alternator and battery are in good condition. Any upgrades you do with simply help reduce voltage drop and increase delivery.
@luisin321123 In your application, your fuse from alt + to battery + should be just above the max output of your alternator. The fuse from battery + to your amplifier should be approximately 400 amps unless you own an amp that is around 2000 watts continuous. If it is 2000 watts rms then I would recommend around 200 to 250 amps of fusing in line. You can always change if you have issues.
@8320884 Put your fuse, which is optional, between the alt + and the solenoid. As far as Marine batteries go, you best bet would be to contact the battery manufacturer for their opinion. I know a lot of guys using the Optima Blue Tops, which are Marine batteries, and never have any issues.
@terror1993 That is correct. Perform the same connections, but your wires will be much longer. You should be able to ground the rear battery to a strut tower bolt in the trunk. Be sure to sand the area free of paint and corrosion.
@Chopper41463 If you do not reattach the positive cable then it must be covered and protected so that it does not short against anything. In most applications it is favorable to connect it with your upgraded wires.
I’ve noticed you connected the positive cable from the + battery terminal to the alternator’s output (bolt) and removed the original factory cable that was attached to the alternator. What do you do with the original cable that was previously attached to the alternator’s + output (bolt)? Do you re-attach it along with the positive 0/1 gauge cable? What would happen if I don’t re-attach the factory positive cable back to the alternator?
i have a lincoln LS and my main battery is the my trunk how would i do the big 3 upgrade?? is it still the same way with just longer wire??
@MaxxsonicsUSAInc i have a lincoln LS and my main battery is the my trunk how would i do the big 3 upgrade?? is it still the same way with just longer wire??
@MaxxsonicsUSAInc I have a lincoln LS and my main battery is the my trunk how would i do the big 3 upgrade?? is it still the same way with just longer wire??
I have a lincoln LS and my main battery is the my trunk how would i do the big 3 upgrade?? is it still the same way with just longer wire??